The ins and outs of polyester fibres and fabrics

Polyester is the most common synthetic fabric on the planet, for many reasons: it's extremely durable, for example, and less labour intensive to produce than cotton fabrics.

Polyester fibres can be used in many different textile applications, but what is its origin and how is it made?

Let’s get started.

A comparison of natural and synthetic fibres

Both natural and synthetic fibres have their advantages and disadvantages. The choice between them often depends on factors such as the intended use, desired properties, sustainability concerns, and personal preferences.

Here's a quick definition:

1. Natural fibres like linen and cotton are created from the fibres of plants. They are both woven into textiles. Learn more here.
2. Synthetic (man-made) fibres such as acrylic, nylon, rayon and polyester are used to make fabrics. Research and development in the field of synthetic fibres is constantly evolving to create more sustainable eco-friendly fabrics. Learn more here.

How polyester fabrics are made

Polyester fibres are created through a chemical process.

It starts with a substance called polyester polymer, which is made from two main ingredients: ethylene, derived from petroleum, and a chemical called terephthalic acid (or its ester form, dimethyl terephthalate). Let's walk through the steps involved in making polyester:

1. Polymerization: The first step is to create the polyester polymer. Ethylene and terephthalic acid (or dimethyl terephthalate) are combined in a reactor, along with a catalyst that facilitates the reaction. The catalyst helps the molecules of ethylene and terephthalic acid (or its ester form) to react and bond together. This process is known as polymerization. The resulting product is a liquid polymer, called a prepolymer.

2. Melt Spinning: Once the polymer is formed, it is heated and melted. The molten polymer is then forced through spinnerets, which are small holes in a metal plate. These spinnerets have many tiny openings, each corresponding to a single filament of polyester. As the molten polymer is extruded through these holes, it forms long, continuous fibres. The fibres are cooled, solidified, and collected on spools.

3. Drawing: The collected polyester filaments are often subjected to a process called drawing. This involves passing the fibres through heated rollers, which stretch and align the polymer chains, making the fibres stronger and more oriented in a particular direction. Drawing also improves the fibre’s ability to handle tension and enhances its overall performance.

4. Texturing (Optional): In some cases, the polyester fibres may undergo a texturing process to give them a more textured or bulky appearance. This can be done through methods like air-jet texturing, where high-pressure air is used to crimp or intermingle the fibres, creating a more textured and bulky structure.

5. Finishing: After spinning and any optional texturing, the polyester fibres may undergo various finishing treatments to enhance their performance or appearance. This can include processes like applying coatings, dyeing, printing, or adding special finishes to impart specific properties like moisture-wicking, flame resistance, or anti-static properties.

6. Fabric Production: Once the polyester fibres are ready, they can be used to create different types of fabrics through various weaving or knitting processes. These processes interlace or interloop the polyester fibres to form a fabric structure. The fabric may undergo additional treatments, such as dyeing, printing, or applying special finishes, to achieve the desired aesthetics and performance characteristics.

There are variations in the manufacturing process of polyester, of course. There are many different techniques that can be added onto this process depending on the desired properties and end-use applications of the fabric.

The process above provides a general overview of how polyester is made from its raw materials to the production of fibres and finally into fabrics.

Why is polyester the most common synthetic fabric?

Polyester is the most common synthetic fabric for several reasons. Polyester fibres make fabric that is easy to care for and durable.

They are also resistant to wrinkling, shrinkage, and fading, and they tend to retain their colour vibrancy even after repeated washing. In contrast, cotton and linen are not easy to clean or care for in environments like these.

Polyester is also a highly versatile fabric that can be engineered to mimic the properties of natural fibres like cotton and linen. It can be made into a wide range of fabrics with different textures, appearances, and performance characteristics. This versatility makes polyester suitable for various applications and markets.

There are drawbacks, of course.

The environmental impact of polyester

Polyester upholstery fabrics, like other synthetic fabrics, have several environmental impacts throughout their lifecycle. For example, from the beginning, they're derived from petroleum, a non-renewable fossil fuel.

Recognising the environmental impact of polyester, efforts are being made to develop more sustainable alternatives. These include recycled polyester (made from post-consumer plastic bottles) and bio-based polyester (derived from renewable sources like corn or sugarcane). These alternatives aim to reduce reliance on fossil fuels.

To ease the environmental impact of polyester upholstery fabrics, we need to focus on reducing consumption, promoting recycling and circular economy practices, and exploring more sustainable fibre options.

There is no silver bullet when it comes to choosing the “right” fabric - there's no fabric yet that has zero impact on the environment.

At FibreGuard, we are committed to our responsibility to ensure we find solutions for better products and product life cycles. Read more about our sustainability commitment here.

Grow your passion for fibres and fabrics

The development of new textile technologies presents designers with a wealth of exciting possibilities.

We hope our blog posts and other resources will help you learn something new about textiles that inspires your creativity.

If you're interested in learning more about how textiles can help shape our lives today and into the future, then explore our free fabrics academy.